Astra H VXR Sprint

The original route for the air flow meter wiring loom, which has to be extended to fit the direct route (CDTi) air box and hoses when this air box is fitted in place of the factory (OE) airbox, has on this occasion been taken down the side of the cam belt cover. Acceptable but not really neat, plus the breather hose runs above it so could be rubbed by the convoluted wiring sleeve . So it needs sorting out…..

Original AFM Loom Route

Also the air flow meter wiring loom needs extending and the original solder joints had only been taped up (bottom wire). So the old joints were desoldered, longer wiring soldered in and the joints have been heat sleeved instead for a neater finish (top two wires).

Wiring Being Tidied Up

All finished, and the new loom has been covered with convoluted wiring sleeve and routed more neatly along the inner wing to the air flow meter.

New AFM Loom Route

The car was already fitted with the Vibra Techics Uprated Engine Mounts, which are much stiffer than the factory engine mounts meaning much less engine movement – ideal for track day and fast road use.

This is the set that Vibra Technics produce; Front, Rear and Right Hand Side Mounts:

Vibra Technics Engine Mount Set

This is the right hand mounted, which is located under the airbox:

Vibra Technics Right Hand Side Engine Mount

Vibra Technics Right Hand Side Engine Mount Fitted

To fit the gearbox mount insert, the battery, battery tray and header tank have been removed……

Access to Left Hand Engine/Gearbox Mount

This gives access to the Left Hand Engine/Gearbox Mount which will be filled to strengthen it and reduce its movement. It also gives a chance to clean round under the battery tray. The Header Tank which is looking old is also going to be replaced.

Gearbox Mount

Left Hand Engine/Gearbox Mount.
To remove the engine mount: First support the block/gearbox underneath using a trolley jack and piece of wood. Remove the 2 plastic clips at the front of the left hand wheel arch liner (you do not need to remove the liner). Reach up behind the liner and undo the retaining nut (13mm). Undo and remove the 3 torx head bolts on the top mount (E14). Undo a remove the 4 torx head bolts (E12) that hold the mount into the chassis rail. You’ll need a combination of ratchet, socket and spanner. The rear lower bolt may not come all the way out yet. Undo the nut and bolt that hold the front engine mount into the engine subframe and remove it. If it doesn’t clear the exhaust downpipe then you’ll need to undo the front pipe clamp to get some movement. Carefully lower the block and gearbox on the trolley jack. You should now be able to undo the last torx bolt fully and then remove the mount from the chassis rail. Then remove the engine mount by carefully tipping the top forward to clear the chassis rail and the bracket on the top of the gearbox. Refitting (as Haynes would say) is the reverse procedure to removal. Ensure all bolts are tightened up correctly.

Gearbox Mounts

The aircon compressor is being removed to save a couple of kilos, the associated pipework and condenser have already gone. It is not needed on a track day car.

The turbocharger is also being removed having covered only 12,000 miles for rework from K04 specification to K06. Having had regular oil changes there is no end float play so the turbo is suitable for rework. It is being reworked with a Billet K06 Compressor wheel, uprated 360 degree bearing pack (thrust bearing) and twin seals and exhaust (turbine) wheel cut back, plus the addition of a Forge Uprated Recirculation Valve.

AC Compressor

AC Compressor Mounting Bracket

Turbo Removed

The first thing to do is to get the bumper off and remove the intercooler and water radiator, zircon compressor and turbocharger.

Bumper Off

Intercooler Removed

Water Rad Next

Water Rad Removed

The intercooler is being sent to Pro Alloy Motorsport for them to modify the outlet to the new spec 60mm outlet. When it goes back together the factory water radiator is being replaced with a Pro Alloy enlarged water radiator, ideal for track day use due to the larger capacity thicker core all aluminium unit.

I bought this 2006 Arden Blue Astra VXR to use as a track day car. It has covered 85,000 miles, but has had regular oil changes over and above the suggested service schedule. A new VXR turbo unit was fitted to it at about 72,000 miles in May 2011, and it had a cambelt and water pump change plus a new uprated clutch and lightweight single mass flywheel at 83,000 miles.

When I bought it it had already been fitted with the following upgrade parts:

• Courtenay Sport Lightweight Single Mass Flywheel
• Sachs Uprated Clutch Cover and Helix Uprated Sprung Disc
• Wavetrac Limited Slip Differential
• Courtenay Piper 76mm (3″) Full Stainless Steel Sports Exhaust System,
• Uprated Courtenay Sport VXRacing Full Height Intercooler (Original Spec with 50mm outlet)
• 18″ Revolution Millennium Alloy Wheels
• DAP Road Springs,
• Whiteline Rear Adjustable Anti Roll Bar
• Alcon 4 Pot Monoblock Front Calipers with 345mm Single Piece Discs
• Courtenay Sport Direct Route Hose Kit and Airbox
• Lower Arm Brake Cooling Ducts
• Foglight Delete Brake Cooling Ducts
• Remapped by Courtenay Sport to 290bhp

which makes it a very good base car to begin with and to improve on.

Foolishly however, I did not many photographs when I first got the car (obviously I was keen to make a start on further improvements!) but here is one (admittedly not a very good one) I do have:

Astra VXR