Astra H VXR Sprint

Only a minor thing, but neat presentation and finishing touches are the difference between just doing a job and doing a job properly. The gearbox oil temperature sender loom, most of which has been cable tied neatly out of the way, just needed something to stop it dangling  around and interfering with the rubber clutch pipe and the reverse light wiring so a P clip has been added. There was already an M8 thread in the gearbox casing which was handy, it seemed a shame not to make use of it!

Gearbox Sender Loom and P Clip

Whilst I was in the same general area I noticed a 90 degree edge at the base of the gearbox oil cooler pump bracket, which formed a sharp point. Not really a major problem but doubtless I’ll reach underneath at some point in the future and find it still there – the hard way. So quickly radiused it using the finger grinder, so it is a nice smooth curve now.

When remapping the Astra H VXR fitted with a K04 (standard) VXR turbo, there are occasions where an uprated actuator is required, usually when aiming for 290-300bhp (or as close to it as you can get) when using the factory K04 KKK turbocharger. The factory actuator has a static break off pressure of around 10psi or so. An uprated, stronger actuator with a static break off pressure of around 12-14psi is needed to overcome the back pressure that builds up in the small exhaust manifold behind the penny valve. The stronger actuator allows for a smoother boost curve and more mid range torque because it can overcome the back pressure and keep the penny valve closed. Without  a stronger actuator the back pressure builds up, and despite the electronic boost control, it becomes too strong for the standard actuator and overcomes it, blowing open the penny valve and causing a loss of mid range boost, at around 3,000 – 3,500 rpm.

For the K06 hybrid turbo that is being used here, which has a billet K06 compressor wheel and a cut back to the turbine (exhaust) wheel, back pressure is much less of an issue due to the cut back reducing the back pressure in the exhaust system and improving the flow through the manifold and down the exhaust. In this instance an actuator with a static break off pressure of around 10psi is suitable. Whilst 10psi is the same break off pressure of a standard VXR actuator the Turbosmart actuator pictured here also has the facility to have the internal springs changed to make it stronger if required, so it seemed an ideal time to try one as the car is due for mapping and final set up. Plus it is a very ‘smart’ looking actuator (excuse the pun!) compared to a standard one.

Turbosmart Actuator

Turbosmart Actuator

Turbosmart Actuator Fitted

A picture of the gauges installed and functioning in the dual vent pod. Boost Gauge (Left) and Dual Oil Temperature Gauge showing the Engine Oil Temperture (Top) and Gearbox Oil Temperature (Bottom. The functions and settings for the SPA gauge are controlled by the red push button mounted on the steering cowl, visible bottom left:

Gauges Installed

So a box arrived this morning with the new gearbox oil:

Amsoil 75w-90 MTG

Being an American company the bottles are 1 US Quart (946ml). The track car with the addition of the oil will take about 3 litres, and also the road car is due a gearbox oil change as well, so ordered 7 bottles to be on the safe side and have some spare.

After a lot of research, and some advice from Performance Oils Ltd, I chose AMSOIL Fully Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube (MTG), 75w-90. Research indicated that it remains ‘in grade’ for longer at higher temperatures and also will stay in grade at temperatures up to 170 degrees C, which this oil will never see so will also be ideal in gearboxes where an oil cooler is not fitted.

It is a premium blend of the finest synthetic base oils and advanced, high-performance additives. It is formulated specifically for maximum protection in the most demanding manual transmission and transaxle applications where an extreme pressure GL-4 gear lube is specified, including those where high horsepower/high torque engines and towing or heavy loads increase transmission stress.

AMSOIL MTG prevents the thinning effects of mechanical shear. It maintains its viscosity and superior film strength for consistent, long-lasting wear protection. MTG excels in hot and cold temperature extremes that exceed the limits of conventional mineral oils. It protects against rust, keeps seals soft for long life, and is compatible with brass synchros for smooth synchromesh shift quality

Ideal for Front Wheel Drive Transaxles:
The advanced synthetic formulation provides ultimate protection for gears and bearings in front wheel drive transaxles.

MTG is a thermally stable, extreme pressure formulation that resists heat, oxidation, acid build-up and varnish. It is the ideal gear lube for high temperature applications, so should be ideal for the M32 gearbox.

Performance Features

• Reduces friction, heat and wear
• Superior high temperature stability
• Resists heat, oxidation, acid build-up and varnish
• Lasts two times longer than conventional petroleum oils
• Improves cold weather shifting

The addition of a gearbox oil cooler is to help keep the gearbox oil temperatures under control when on track. Without a cooler the gearbox oil temperatures can quite quickly rise to 120+ degrees C (if you let them) which can quickly degrade the gearbox oil. Using a very high quality fully synthetic gearbox oil is essential. Because the M32 gearbox does not dissipate heat readily the only way to bring the temperature down is to stop the car and leave it idle for about 20 minutes or so, and the oil temperature drops to mid 70’s and then another 20 minutes on track will bring the temperature back up again and so the cycle continues.

As far as the car is concerned on track this is the one thing that hinders its use, because everything else (water temperature, inlet air temperature, brakes) are absolutely fine.

Getting everything together for the gearbox oil cooler has taken a few months and the whole installation has taken a little longer than expected due to one thing and another (manly the lack of a suitable outlet fitting) but in the end I have got it all sorted.

So again after chatting to Think Automotive, we specced this Mocal Oil Pump with the following spec; Hardened bronze gear pump. Brass body 12 volt motor. Weight 3lbs. Flows up to 150 gallons per hour (UK)/680 litres per hour of oil. Pressure up to 50psi. Max temp 175 degrees C. Current draw 6 to 8amps. Rubber Mounted. Not cheap at £270+VAT but again given the other options probably the best pump for the job.

Mocal Oil Pump

An Earl’s Performance in-line oil filter will be added to the gearbox outlet pipework (just in case):

In Line Oil Filter

And a switch and LED for the pump:

Switch and LED

Which have been fitted into the tray which sites in front of the gear lever, so easily accessible and can be switched on when the oil temperature dictates:

Switch and LED Fitted

I have also added a fused relay for the gearbox oil cooler pump, mounted at the front of the Underhood Electrical Centre (UEC):

Relay Fitted

Banjos and Banjo Bolts for the oil cooler:

Banjos and Banjo Bolts

This is the factory (OE) engine oil cooler, which has been removed and cleaned out and will now be used as the gearbox oil cooler. The feed and return pipes have been fitted with the new anodised aluminium banjos and bolts and new oil sealing rings:

OE Oil Cooler

I then needed a bracket to mount the oil cooler to the car which was fabricated for me to a supplied template:

Oil Pump Bracket

Trial fitting of the gearbox oil cooler pump (prior to the bracket being finished), located behind the L/H wheel arch liner. Mounting to the chassis is via two pre-existing M8 mounting points, ordinarily used on the CDTi models to mount the engine ecu in the same location. (So if you have a 1.9 CDTi model then this will not work.) An additional brace will be fabricated to add further stability to the main bracket.

Oil Pump Mounted

And here is the bracket completed with the additional brace:

Bracket Fitted to Car

Onto the gearbox fittings. Most of the fittings were easy to track down from Think Automotive. The hardest one was for the outlet from the gearbox to the oil pump.

Gearbox Outlet Fittings for Gearbox Oil Cooler:
Top – M18x1.5 to -8AN straight with -8AN 90 degree Female to Male Adapter (an alternative would be to use a 90 degree elbow) but unfortunately neither arrangement at 60mm across will clear the Astra H subframe assembly.
Bottom – A much more compact 90 degree adapter (which is evident fom the picture) with an M18x1.5 thread for the gearbox outlet to a -8AN Male fitting which will connect up to the rest of the oil cooler pipework. At 40mm across it will just clear the subframe. Comes complete with o ring and metal sealing washer.
Unable to source this fitting (or anything similar) in the UK, it had to be ordered from the USA, but was a bargain at about US$6.

Gearbox Fittings

M18 x 1.5 to -8AN 90 Degree Elbow for the gearbox outlet:

M18 x 1.5 to -8AN 90 Degree Elbow

So having sourced a suitable 90 degree fitting, there was still a slight issue with clearance both trying to wind the fitting into the gearbox outlet (it catches on the integral washer on the bolt above it as well as part of the casing) and also on the pipework running from the fitting, where the casing is in the way (bottom right next to the subframe). Front View:

Casing Needs Slight Modification

Offending bolt (top) and casing (bottom left) which requires modifying to clear. Rear View:

Casing Needs Slight Modification

So the excess casting has been removed (bottom right) to give clearance on the oil pipework. Front View:

Casing Modified from Front

Casing Modified

And this is the casing that has been eased. The bolt had to be removed to do this but this was plugged while it was done. Rear View:

Casing Modified from Rear

So the outlet fitting now clears and fits into the gearbox, with good clearance on the subframe:

Outlet Fitting

And from underneath:

Outlet Fitting

Outlet Fitting

This is the outlet pipework to the oil pump including the in-line oil filter:

Outlet Pipework with Oil Filter

And finally everything mounted and connected up:

Oil Pump Mounted on Bracket

Oil Pump Mounted on Bracket

As with the engine oil cooler hoses I am using some OE heat shrinkable fabric sleeve which is designed to protect hoses from abrasion. Black Heatshrinkable Fabric Sleeving for additional oil cooler lines, to retain an OE look. Highly flexible heatshrink woven fabric tubing, Polyolefin/Polyester construction for excellent abrasion resistance 125°C operating temperature (excellent abrasion resistance to 135°C), Heat shrinkable to grip substrates tightly without additional fixing, Easy to install, Designed primarily to provide mechanical abrasion protection for components such as rubber hoses, plastic pipes and harness wiring bundles.

Heatshrinkable Fabric Sleeve

Again as with the engine oil cooler provision has also been made for an oil temperature gauge sender to monitor the gearbox oil temperature, so the pump can be operated as required when the temperature starts to rise past 100 degrees C. I sourced a Speedflow M18x1.5 to ⅛th NPT aluminium adapter from Australia, because I could not find it available for sale in the UK.

M18x1.5 to ⅛th NPT Adapter

And this fitting has been installed into the level check plug at the front of the gearbox. More about this in the Oil Temperature Gauge post.

Gates Technical Information for Cambelt Timing on the Z20LEx 2.0 Turbo family of engines; Z20LET, Z20LEL, Z20LER and Z20LEH (Astra H VXR). This is not a ‘How To’ guide but gives additional technical information for those with enough mechanical competency to carry out a cam belt change.

Cambelt Change Cycle suggested by the manufacturer:
Z20LET :: 4 years* or 40,000 Miles*
Z20LEL :: 8 years* or 80,000 Miles*
Z20LER :: 8 years* or 80,000 Miles*
Z20LEH :: 8 years* or 80,000 Miles*
*Whichever occurs first.
Notes: The cambelt (timing belt), plastic inlet roller and tensioner are common between all the engines (i.e. the same parts). The only different is that the LEL/LER and LEH kits use a metal exhaust roller (LET uses a plastic exhaust roller). For this reason I would suggest a 6 years* or 60,000 Miles* change cycle as best practice. Always use a new tensioner retaining bolt.

What is Needed……
As well as a good toolkit, with a good selection of sockets, allen head sockets, and male torx sockets, a 15mm spanner (or similar) to release tension on the auxiliary drive belt and a 17mm ½” drive socket and ratchet (makes turning the engine over to check tension much easier), you will also need for the later engine a very high quality T40 Male Torx ⅜” drive socket and a Camshaft Locking Tool such as a Draper CLT2 (Ref: 69929) or CLT-GM2 (Ref:61276) or similar. Also a ¼” drive E10 female torx socket (a slim one) is useful for removing the timing belt cover bolt next to the tensioner once the tensioner is in the ‘rest’ position.

The T40 Torx is required on the later engines for tightening the cambelt tensioner retaining bolt. It has a very shallow head and if you are not careful the socket can slip and/or chew out the head of the bolt. I only use a Snap On torx for this particular tensioner retaining bolt because they are particularly strong, and it gets used for nothing else other than this particular bolt so it doesn’t get general wear and tear or other damage.

Example Camshaft Locking Tools:

Camshaft Locking Tool CLT2

Camshaft Locking Tool CLT-GM2

When changing the cam belt always check the water pump and replace if in any doubt, especially on later engines where the change cycle of the cam belt is longer.

Gates Technical Data Sheet on how to time up the engine: PDF – Timing Information (4.8Mb)
Note: You will need a PDF reader for this file

PDF – Timing Information

Remember the tensioner is tensioned ANTI-Clockwise!!

Timing Pointer – Correctly Tensioned

Note: E&OE. The above Technical Guidelines are provided for information only. No responsibility is accepted for damage, loss, injury or general stupidness. If you are not sure on exactly what you are doing when it comes to cambelt replacement, leave the job to a professional who does…. That is all.

I was introduced to Evans Waterless Engine Coolants a while ago when one of their distributors dropped a flyer into a package that I was sent and also at the AutoSport International Show at the NEC in Birmingham. Having read up about the benefits of using it, it seemed the ideal time to switch to it after the engine had been stripped down to have the steel rods fitted, as the majority of the original coolant had already been drained.

So a phone call directly to Evans and this package arrived 24 hours later:

Evans PowerCool 180 Waterless Engine Coolant

The Evans website details everything you need to know about the products but in brief:
Eliminates Overheating – Evans Waterless Coolants have a boiling point above 180°C and will not vapourise, thus eliminating overheating, boil-over and after-boil.
Reduces Pressure – Evans Waterless Coolants generate very low vapour pressures reducing strain on engine cooling system components.
Prevents Corrosion – Evans Waterless Coolants contain no oxygen effectively eliminating corrosion.
Increases BHP – Evans Waterless Coolants eliminate pre-ignition and detonation caused by overheating – thus improving combustion efficiency and delivering more power.
Stops Erosion – Evans Waterless Coolants prevent cavitation and eliminate liner and cooling pump erosion.
Freeze Protection – Evans Waterless Coolants freeze below -40ºC
Non-Toxic – Evans Waterless Coolants are proven to be Non-Toxic. Standard anti-freeze is toxic and known to kill pets.

One of the main things that drew me to the product was the reduction in pressure in the coolant system. One of the slightly annoying things with traditional water based coolant is the fact that it is operating in a pressurised environment and when hot it expands. In the Astra H VXR when on track and used hard, if the coolant level starts at the recommended cold level, it pressurises coolant out of the bleed point at the back of the header tank cap all over the engine bulkhead.

Even if the level is dropped to about 1cm below the cold level (when cold) when hot the level will rise and it can still pressurise out of the header tank. This product will eliminate the problem due to the removal of all the water and the reduction in the pressure in the system. Also the reduction in pressure will put less strain on all the coolant system components and hoses; another benefit when on track.

I chose the Power Cool 180 for performance and track cars, and set about filling with the Evans Prep Fluid to hygroscopically remove any traces of the original coolant, drained the system when cold and blew it through from the header tank hose and from the thermostat to remove all the Prep Fluid. The system was then filled with a shade over 7 litres of Evan Power Cool 180.

I will update on progress when out on track but so far with rolling road set up runs, no problems at all. In my opinion every car used out on track should have this product installed.

Just Remember……..

Water for Drinking Evans for Cooling

Almost back together. Just the gearbox oil cooler pipework to finish off (from the gearbox to the oil pump), the slam panel can now go back in and add the Evans PowerCool 180 Waterless Coolant.

Engine Bay Nearing Completion

The Odyssey lightweight motorsport battery came about for a couple of reasons. Firstly the battery on the road car died, and needing a battery for it in a hurry I ‘borrowed’ the Yuasa battery that was originally fitted to the track car.

So the option was to either replace it with another heavy wet cell car battery for about 50 quid or to justify the additional expense of a smaller much lighter weight motorsport battery. Simple choice really!

The Odyssey PC680 has enough capacity to run a 2.0 engine is much smaller than a ‘normal’ battery and weighs only 6.65kgs (despite the battery label stating 7kgs!), compared to a typical car battery at 16kgs or so. The weight saving is ideal, especially because of the additional oil cooler and pump that have gone in.

So, one Odyssey Extreme Motorsport Battery was ordered. The PC680 battery is only about 10mm taller than an original car battery meaning there is plenty of clearance on the bonnet and to make fitting simpler I specced it with SAE brass terminals to take the factory clamps, meaning no requirement to alter any of the cabling:

Odyssey PC680 Motorsport Battery

The next problem to be solved was how to mount the battery into the engine bay. There are plenty of functional battery clamps around for motorsport use for when a battery is mounted inside a vehicle, but very few visually appealing ones. Not wishing to have to make something from scratch, a search online discovered a hold-down clamp designed and sold by Odyssey.

Odyssey Battery Clamp

Unfortunately despite searching I could not find it available in the UK but not wanting to be defeated kept searching and found it available online in the USA so went about importing it. Possibly at US$110 it could be considered expensive, but I felt that for something well manufactured and ideal for the job worth every penny!

So I set about trial fitting the clamp and the battery into the car. The great thing with this clamp is that it sits on the factory battery support (which is integrated into the chassis leg) and the bottom left hole in the battery clamp lines up perfectly with one of the original M8 battery bolt fixings.

Odyssey Battery Trial Fit

To support the battery and clamp securely, Pro Alloy Motorsport made up a couple of additional supporting brackets to my supplied patterns. The first one, secures the bottom right fixing point to the OE pickup point on the chassis leg:

Mounting Bracket

The second bracket is a U shaped one and bolts to the clamp in 2 points and across onto the remaining pick up point on the chassis leg:

Mounting Bracket

All mounted securely, just the battery leads to be connected:

All Fitted – Just needs connecting up

And there is plenty of clearance between the battery clamp securing bracket nut and bolt closest to the chassis leg (which is at the top of the picture) and the clutch feed pipe which runs underneath just in front of the gearbox mount.

Clearance on Clutch Pipe