Astra H VXR Sprint

The OE radiator lower support brackets (minus rubber inserts – top) and the Pro Alloy Intercooler mounting brackets (bottom) have had a fresh coat of paint to tidy them up.

Radiator and Intercooler Brackets

Pro Alloy Intercooler (in Stealth Black finish) returned from Pro Alloy after having had the outlet (right hand top) opened up to 60mm from 50mm, plus the addition of a 60mm outlet pipe with map sensor boss (not shown).

Pro Alloy Intercooler

New Pro Alloy Water Radiator, in Stealth Black finish.

Pro Alloy Water Radiator

Black Intercooler Hoses to replace the original blue hoses, plus black alloy 90 joiner pipe (top left).

Intercooler Pipework

Water Rad fitted.

Water Rad Fitted

Water Rad and Intercooler fitted.

Water Rad and Intercooler Fitted

Water Rad and Intercooler Fitted

Water Rad and Intercooler Fitted

Intercooler

Track Spec Air Guide Blades added to the intercooler.

Intercooler Air Guide Blades

Air Guide Blade

Air Guide Blade

Fan Relays relocated to the water rad. They usually sit on a bracket on the front fan which sits on the air con condenser, which has all been removed for track work.

Fan Relays Relocated

Not much to report here, other than the original factory heat shield (which was looking a little tired) has been bead blasted and then painted with Wurth Matt Black Lacquer Spray, temperature resistant up to 600 degrees C. This smartens it up no end.

Matt Black Exhaust Heat Shield

With the aircon compressor removed,

AC Compressor

this is the auxiliary belt tensioner where the aircon compressor was mounted:

AC Compressor Mounting Bracket

This is the Aircon Delete Kit. Bracket freshly powder coated, auxiliary pulley, bolt and cover. Once assembled it replicates the Aircon Compressor and replaces the aircon unit:

Aircon Delete Bracket and Pulley

Aircon Delete Kit fitted with original belt refitted.

Aircon Delete Kit Fitted

And where the aircon pipes have been removed from the bulkhead, an aluminium blanking piece:

Bulkhead Aircon Blank

has been fitted to prevent dirt ingress should the aircon ever be refitted:

Aircon Blank

Turbocharger returned from Turbo Technics after rework to K06 spec with K06 Billet Compressor Wheel, uprated 360 gearing pack and exhaust wheel cut back to improve exhaust gas flow. A big thank you to Pete at Turbo technics for organising the rework for me. Turbo is looking like new.

K06 Turbocharger

Exhaust (Turbine) Wheel Cut Back

Turbo Refitted

Turbo Refitted

The original route for the air flow meter wiring loom, which has to be extended to fit the direct route (CDTi) air box and hoses when this air box is fitted in place of the factory (OE) airbox, has on this occasion been taken down the side of the cam belt cover. Acceptable but not really neat, plus the breather hose runs above it so could be rubbed by the convoluted wiring sleeve . So it needs sorting out…..

Original AFM Loom Route

Also the air flow meter wiring loom needs extending and the original solder joints had only been taped up (bottom wire). So the old joints were desoldered, longer wiring soldered in and the joints have been heat sleeved instead for a neater finish (top two wires).

Wiring Being Tidied Up

All finished, and the new loom has been covered with convoluted wiring sleeve and routed more neatly along the inner wing to the air flow meter.

New AFM Loom Route

The car was already fitted with the Vibra Techics Uprated Engine Mounts, which are much stiffer than the factory engine mounts meaning much less engine movement – ideal for track day and fast road use.

This is the set that Vibra Technics produce; Front, Rear and Right Hand Side Mounts:

Vibra Technics Engine Mount Set

This is the right hand mounted, which is located under the airbox:

Vibra Technics Right Hand Side Engine Mount

Vibra Technics Right Hand Side Engine Mount Fitted

To fit the gearbox mount insert, the battery, battery tray and header tank have been removed……

Access to Left Hand Engine/Gearbox Mount

This gives access to the Left Hand Engine/Gearbox Mount which will be filled to strengthen it and reduce its movement. It also gives a chance to clean round under the battery tray. The Header Tank which is looking old is also going to be replaced.

Gearbox Mount

Left Hand Engine/Gearbox Mount.
To remove the engine mount: First support the block/gearbox underneath using a trolley jack and piece of wood. Remove the 2 plastic clips at the front of the left hand wheel arch liner (you do not need to remove the liner). Reach up behind the liner and undo the retaining nut (13mm). Undo and remove the 3 torx head bolts on the top mount (E14). Undo a remove the 4 torx head bolts (E12) that hold the mount into the chassis rail. You’ll need a combination of ratchet, socket and spanner. The rear lower bolt may not come all the way out yet. Undo the nut and bolt that hold the front engine mount into the engine subframe and remove it. If it doesn’t clear the exhaust downpipe then you’ll need to undo the front pipe clamp to get some movement. Carefully lower the block and gearbox on the trolley jack. You should now be able to undo the last torx bolt fully and then remove the mount from the chassis rail. Then remove the engine mount by carefully tipping the top forward to clear the chassis rail and the bracket on the top of the gearbox. Refitting (as Haynes would say) is the reverse procedure to removal. Ensure all bolts are tightened up correctly.

Gearbox Mounts