MOT Time of year again, the second one in my ownership. The car passed but with an advise on a perished front right outer cv boot needing replacement.
The outer front right boot was the one that needed to be replaced but I decided to replace the inner boot as well because the outer boot has to come off the shaft via the inboard side meaning the inner cv joint has to come off to allow this to happen. The likelihood off an inner boot needing to be done at some time in the future meant that it made sense to do both whilst the shaft was off the car.
So after buying the required parts from Desgin911 (I decided to go with genuine cv boots which appear to be made by GKN) it was into the workshop. Front Outer: 99634929100 Front Inner: 99634929300
Removal of the retaining hub nut (originally tightened to around 330-340 lb ft) was no issue with my hub nut removal tool (Milwaukee Impact Wrench and 32mm impact socket) after the wheel centre cap was carefully removed…….
Once partially undone along with the wheel bolts with the vehicle on the ground, it was onto the ramp and up on the air to continue the job.
Looking at the layout the track rod end ball joint was split from the hub carrier, the lower wishbone/control arm ‘coffin arm’ inner bolt to subframe was removed along with the control arm bolt to lower wishbone.
This allowed the coffin arm and control arm to be swung out of the way along with the track rod end which gives enough clearance to remove the outer cv from the hub carrier. 6 bolts internally on the inboard cv joint separate it and allow the shaft to be removed. Once out it is into a vice for removal of the inner cv joint to allow the boots to be replaced. As soon as the shaft came off the outer cv boot split, so we got to it just in time!
Note: The inner cv joint was dot punched to mark it to ensure it goes back together in exactly the same place to insure against possible vibrations on refitting.
It is then a fairly simple procedure to remove the outer cv joint from the shaft (there is a snap ring internally that comes off and the shaft can then be removed).
Note: The position of the cv joint onto the shaft was marked to ensure it can be refitted in exactly the same place.
The outer joint was cleaned, regressed with CV2 grease and a new boot fitted.
The inner joint was checked, some cv grease added and a new boot fitted and the shaft refitted into the cv joint, noting the correct orientation and the cover was refitted.
Refitting the shaft is the reverse of removal and all removed bolts were refitted and torqued correctly (repair manual or google will be your friend) thread lock being used as appropriate on the inner cv retaining screws, and suspension bolts. The splines of the outer cv joint has some Wurth AL1100 applied where they locate into the hub to help prevent seizure in future. A new lock nut was fitted and torqued correctly without the use of any AL1100.
Notes: Control Arm on Side Member 120Nm / Control Arm on Diagonal Arm 160Nm / Track Road Steering Arm 75Nm / Driveshaft Hub Nut 460Nm
Service Time as well:
A thorough checkover and oil and filter change, again using a Mahle OEM oil filter and A40 Porsche Spec oil. As I have owned the car for 2 years it was also due a pollen/cabin filter change as well. Again a Mahle filter was used.
Brake fluid change and brake service will be carried out in a month or so when the brake fluid change is due.