Six months, and 1,925 miles, have passed since the last engine oil change at the end of December. Given the limited mileage the car covers, and because oil is the life blood of any engine, it does no harm to replace it on a regular basis. With this particular engine I prefer six monthly intervals because I like to keep the engine oil clean.
At the last oil change the oil filter housing was also replaced, using a genuine Porsche housing (Part: 99610702055) which included a Porsche supplied oil filter (Part: 99610722553 Current Number 99610722560). This time a Mahle oil filter (OX128/1 D) was used along with Porsche Approved A40 5w-40 viscosity engine oil. The filter is effectively a Genuine Porsche oil filter in a Mahle box because inside the Porsche box resides an OX128/1 D as anyone who has bought a genuine Porsche oil filter can testify (and the pictures below confirm).
The oil on the dipstick was still very clean when checked prior to draining. The filter housing was removed using Hazet tool 2169 and when removed and checked there were no nasty surprises (unexpected metal particles) on the Gold Plug Magentic Sump Plug. The old paper oil filter was also inspected and there was nothing untoward therein either.
Having seen some of the online videos etc of oil changes and people inspecting oil filters I cannot believe how dirty the oil and oil filters are on some of them are compared to the above pictures. It does go to show regular oil changes are really worthwhile, and not an expensive job either.
The engine was left to drain for a couple of hours as the car was up on a ramp (although suggested time is 20 minutes it is nice to drain as much as possible) and the filter housing and sump plug were washed out in a Safety Kleen parts washer. Once cleaned and wiped down a new sump plug washer (M18x24x1.5 Part: 90012310630 or similar) fitted to the Gold Plug and it was refitted (ensuring the face on the sump was clean) and tightened. Forgive me for not specifying a torque figure. The original aluminium sump plug into the aluminium sump is 50 Nm, which is too much for the Gold Plug being stainless into aluminium there is a high risk of damaging the sump threads. I use my own in built torque wrench in my arm to establish if the sump plug is tight enough. After many years oil chaining oil and tightening sump plugs you get a feel for what is right.
The filter housing was wiped down ensuring threads on the housing and the engine are clean/dry. The new oil filter was fitted to the housing (making sure the spring loaded fitting is still in bottom of the housing and not stuck in the old oil filter) and the new supplied seal swapped onto the housing replacing the old one. I like to wipe a light smear of engine oil on the new filter housing seal prior to fitting so it does’t get fitted dry. I also like to fill the housing with fresh oil before fitting. I have seen this missed on DIY internet/YouTube ‘How To’ guides. My preference is always to have oil in the oil filter/housing prior to first start up. Refitting the housing onto the engine it is screwed on by hand first until tight (to ensure it is not cross threaded) and then using the Hazet filter tool tightened up to 25Nm (19 lb/ft) checked with a torque wrench.
Finally added around 8 litres of A40 5w-40 engine oil and check the level using the dip stick, allowing it to drain down into the sump to ensure an accurate level check. The dash gauge will also confirm the level once correct, and it can be corrected if needed once the engine has been run up to temperature.